Vogue has at all times been a robust storytelling device, and in Energy Ebook III: Elevating Kanan, it’s a personality in its personal proper. Costume designer Tsigie White masterfully blends nostalgia with a recent perspective, making certain that every wardrobe selection displays each the period and the dynamic evolution of its characters. Because the present gears up for its extremely anticipated fourth season, White opens up about her method to capturing the wealthy visible identification of early ‘90s New York and the way style helps drive the narrative ahead.
Reimagining ‘90s Vogue for a Fashionable Viewers
Her analysis was meticulous—pouring over archival road images, classic magazines, music movies and even private household picture albums to seize the essence of the time. The affect of hip-hop is plain all through the sequence, from daring prints and layered styling to assertion equipment. However for White, it wasn’t nearly recreating historical past; it was about making the previous really feel dynamic and visually partaking for at this time’s viewers. “I performed with shade, match and styling to stability nostalgia with a recent edge,” she mentioned. “Each character’s look tells a narrative, reflecting their character, standing and evolution.”
Set towards the backdrop of Queens within the early Nineties, Elevating Kanan leans closely on its wardrobe to move viewers to the golden age of hip-hop style. White’s method is rooted in authenticity. “The early ‘90s was such a wealthy time for style, particularly in New York,” she defined. “I wished the costumes to replicate the lived experiences of individuals from that period.”

The Evolution of Type as a Narrative System
Character growth in Elevating Kanan isn’t simply instructed by dialogue—it’s stitched into each outfit. Over the previous three seasons, White has used style to chart the characters’ journeys. “At first, Kanan’s type mirrored his youth and innocence,” she famous. “However as he matures and will get deeper into the sport, his look turns into extra structured, his shade palette darkens and his total presence sharpens.” The shift in wardrobe mirrors the present’s themes of energy, survival and ambition. Because the stakes rise, the costumes tackle a extra somber tone, visually reinforcing the characters’ struggles and transformations.
Dressing the Icons: Raquel, Marvin and Jukebox
Every main character’s type is a mirrored image of their private journey and the roles they play in Kanan’s world. For Raquel Thomas, the formidable matriarch on the heart of the sequence, White took inspiration from the facility dressing of the ‘90s. “I considered her as a superhero villain,” she defined. “Her wardrobe is about dominance—sharp strains, leather-based, steel accents and tailor-made items that command consideration.” Each look exudes confidence and authority, reinforcing Raquel’s skill to navigate a world the place energy is all the pieces.
For Uncle Marvin, White wished his style to really feel deeply acquainted. “Each Black household has an ‘Uncle Marvin,’” she mentioned. “The best way he walks, talks and clothes—it’s all intentional. I wished viewers to see his character and immediately say, ‘I do know this man.’”
Jukebox, then again, makes use of style as a method of self-discovery. “Within the early seasons, her wardrobe was about mixing in. However as she begins to seek out her voice—each in music and in her identification—her type turns into extra androgynous, extra expressive.” Vogue turns into a device of insurrection and authenticity for Jukebox, serving to her carve out her personal area in a world that always tries to restrict her.

Drawing from Cultural Icons and Road Type
White’s influences for Elevating Kanan are deeply rooted in hip-hop tradition. “Artists like Massive Daddy Kane, LL Cool J, Jodeci and Boyz II Males helped outline the streetwear of the time,” she shared. The affect of traditional movies like Juice, New Jack Metropolis and Boyz n the Hood additionally performed a key position in shaping the present’s aesthetic. “These movies didn’t simply seize the style—they captured the temper and storytelling behind the garments,” she added.
Past popular culture, White turned to on a regular basis folks. Classic road images from New York within the ‘90s helped floor the costumes in authenticity. “ real-life moments—how folks truly wearing Queens on the time—was essential to creating all the pieces really feel lived-in and true to the interval.”
Challenges in Costume Design
Recreating the early ‘90s isn’t with out its hurdles. “One of many greatest challenges was sourcing multiples,” White admitted. “There’s no retailer the place you’ll be able to simply purchase ‘90s clothes in bulk, so when a scene required 4 equivalent outfits, we needed to recreate every bit from scratch.” Discovering classic items in the appropriate sizes was one other problem. “Physique sorts at this time are completely different from the early ‘90s. Classic clothes usually has smaller cuts, so we needed to alter, tailor or remake clothes to keep up each interval accuracy and correct match.”
Regardless of these challenges, White sees them as alternatives for creativity. “Each look in Elevating Kanan is fastidiously crafted to make sure authenticity,” she mentioned. “It’s all about bringing the previous to life in a means that feels actual and immersive.”

Season 4 and the Legacy of ‘90s Vogue
Because the present continues to discover the complexities of household, energy and ambition, White guarantees that Season 4 will ship much more meticulously crafted costumes. “As a result of the storyline stays rooted in 1992, followers can anticipate the identical consideration to element, daring decisions and ‘90s realness they’ve come to like.”
And if there’s one style development from the sequence that White would like to see make a comeback? “Leather-based units,” she mentioned with a smile. “They had been all the pieces again then, they usually nonetheless are.”
Via her work on Elevating Kanan, Tsigie White isn’t simply curating nostalgia—she’s celebrating the cultural impression of ‘90s style whereas giving it a recent new life on display.
